Utila is one of those places that exist in their own dimension, not fitting in any category. One of the three islands off the Honduran northern coast, surrounded by the breath-taking beauty of coral reefs, it has been popular among diving enthusiasts for quite some time. It is a tropical paradise, green and lush, surrounded by dazzlingly blue sea. It is also a place lost in time, stuck somewhere in the 50's , with its wooden houses with peeling paint and rusted roofs and overgrown bougainvilleas.
Utila’s native population is blond and white, or black and tall, or combination thereof, these two groups — former pirates and former slaves — mixing for generations, both groups speaking English. Fresh blood, and the Spanish language, came from the Honduran mainland in the form of laborers who arrived looking for better jobs, liked it in Utila, brought their families and now compose more than 50 percent of Utila’s population. A small but interesting group are foreigners who made Utila their home. Each has a story, but it takes a few beers to get it.
Although local environmentalists fret, the reefs are still healthy and teeming with life, but that might change quickly if nothing is done to prevent degradation which is often the result of increased tourism or population growth combined with poor education and a general lack of care. Responsibility lays with each one of us, visitors and locals.
There is more to do in Utila than just dive: snorkeling is wonderful as the reefs are very close to the coast, hiking through the jungle can take you to one of many deserted beaches, kayaking in the lagoon will enable you to see the world of mangroves which covers most of Utila.
Night life, and often part of the day life, goes on in the many picturesque bars which line Utila’s main drag, or are hanging over the water on wooden decks. The music is a mix that reflects the diversity of the inhabitants — there is something for everyone: from Reggae and techno, to popular Latin songs, and to the surprise of many foreigners, country and Western. Of course, the music can be listened to only at profoundly high decibel levels.
Utila, like all Bay Islands, have taken a beating with the unstable political situation in Honduras. The foreigners living permanently on the island made a huge effort to pass a word to the outside world that the island was completely out of the Honduran politics, enjoying peace and harmony when the rest of the country suffered unrest and riots. The diversity of population taught local people the value of respect for other people’s beliefs and opinions, and whatever differences exit could easily be resolved over a shared bottle of beer.
You will fall in love with Utila and will not be able to say why. It goes under your skin. Whether it’s the slow pace of life, the friendliness, originality and warmth of its people, or a rustic charm hard to find in popular tourist destinations, does not matter. You will come back, almost everyone does, and you will be surprised how little has changed since your last visit, as though time passes less quickly in Utila.
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